Some thrift shops, glutted with flimsy, synthetic wares, have stopped accepting fast-fashion donations. Last 12 months, a mountain of cast-off clothing outside the Ghanaian capital metropolis of Accra generated so much methane that it exploded; months later, it was nonetheless smoldering. Despite its aggressive attitude, Dolls Kill has its own community of influencers and model ambassadors, just as its extra conformist friends do. The first day of the pattern sale was invitation-only; the room was filled with Dolls Kill superfans, but additionally influencers like Jake Fleming, a lithe, blond fashion YouTuber in his early 20s. He informed me that he appreciated Dolls Kill simply fine—its garments photographed well and he at all times wore them to Coachella—but attending this occasion was mainly work for him. “We went to a model get together before this, and we have two extra brand events tomorrow,” he said, a hint of fatigue evident in his voice.

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